Inside Schiaparelli’s Abyss-Inspired Haute Couture Collection

Schiaparelli opened Paris Haute Couture Week with The Abyss, creative director Daniel Roseberry’s Fall 2026 Haute Couture collection. Presented in Paris, the collection drew inspiration from beneath the ocean’s surface, tapping into the mystery and quiet power of the deep sea.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

Rather than recreating underwater life, Roseberry translated its atmosphere into couture through sculptural silhouettes, fluid textures, and meticulous craftsmanship. Elements of surrealist art also informed the collection, weaving fantasy into its tailoring. The designs balanced bold, architectural construction with softer, more fluid details.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

Among the standout looks was an ivory sculpted corset paired with a voluminous skirt of layered ruffles that moved like waves. A pale blue structured bodice flowed into a delicate lace skirt, while a blush pink ensemble combined a cropped embellished jacket with a sculptural high-shine skirt.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

Elsewhere, glossy black latex introduced a darker, more dramatic mood, with exaggerated silhouettes and curved forms reminiscent of deep-sea creatures. Shades of ivory, blush pink, powder blue, lobster pink, saffron, and glossy black ran throughout the collection, complemented by statement gold earrings, sculptural jewellery, and coordinating handbags.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

Every look reflected the precision that has become one of Roseberry’s trademarks since taking over the house. Sculpted corsets established strong silhouettes, while layered ruffles, floral appliqués, and sheer lace softened the overall effect with movement and texture.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

Hand-applied embroidery, intricate beadwork, and richly textured finishes added depth to each design. Roseberry also played with contrasting materials, pairing glossy surfaces with delicate fabrics so every garment held its shape without ever looking laboured.

Photo: Schiaparelli’s

With The Abyss, Roseberry gave the ocean’s hidden world new form through silhouette sculpted corsetry suggesting shell and layered ruffles moving like current. It’s proof that Schiaparelli’s couture doesn’t need reference to feel like the deep sea; it just needs Roseberry’s eye.